This charming Thai restaurant opened in 1991 to big crowds, and it has continued to enjoy hearty acclaim. The place is full of neighborhood regulars and suburbanites looking for consistent Asian cooking in an upbeat, contemporary setting--bare oak floors, candlelit tables covered in royal blue linen cloths, and cheerful yellow walls.

The same menu is offered throughout the day, with specials at both meals. The fresh basil rolls are some of the best around, but another appetizer favorite is chef Surin Techarukpong's exquisite deep-fried edible "baskets" filled with shrimp, chicken, and corn, served with a piquant vinegar-chili-peanut sauce. Entrees range from seafood dishes to traditional noodles and curry. If it's on the specials menu, opt for neur nam tok--strips of grilled beef tenderloin seasoned with lime, hot serrano chile peppers, fresh basil, fish sauce, and green onion; it's eaten rolled in cabbage leaves. For a cool finale, try the creamy homemade coconut ice cream or one of the mango, green tea, or ginger versions.

On weekends, arrive early or late to avoid a wait, and try for a table in the window or along the wall. Try to avoid seating in the small back rooms; the main dining area is noisy and crowded but much more fun.