Smack in the middle of trendy Virginia-Highland, surrounded by chic boutiques and cafes, is a comfy old neighborhood tavern--nearly a juke joint--that's managed so far to buck the gentrification sweep. This place, which has been operated by George Najour and his family for 40 years, is not trendy, so don't expect wild mushroom risotto or seared tuna. But its solid bar fare--burgers, sandwiches, fries, and the like--and the unpretentious attitude can be a relief if you've overdosed on Yuppiedom. George passed away in late 2002 and his son continues to run the place.

Good bets are the substantial homemade black bean soup, the Greek salad, and the crispy onion rings--even better than the Varsity's. When you order a burger, be sure to specify how you want it done. The charbroiled chicken salad, chunks of tender breast atop mixed greens, is another decent alternative. The place is thick with neighborhood regulars and is home to a couple of book discussion groups, which meet there regularly. On a sunny day, grab a table on the sidewalk out front; it's a great place for watching the world (and some unusual folks) go by.