Who says pizza has to have an Italian pedigree? The Papadopoulos family migrated here more than 20 years ago from Connecticut, and they've been serving up Greek specialties and their interpretation of pizza ever since. Their restaurant draws a large number of families and Emory University students from the surrounding area. The interior is ultra-casual, with Naugahyde booths and Formica-topped tables, and you'll be welcome in shorts or jeans.

There's quite a variety of Greek dishes, from gyros to pastitsio to rotisserie-cooked lamb. Portions are generous, prices are reasonable, and everything is authentic. It's home-style rather than fancy--exactly what you would get if the Papadopouloses invited you over for dinner. The signature creation is the pizza, and if you've never had it Greek style, it's worth a try. It has a thick, yeasty crust and comes in several varieties, but the best is the vegetarian special, with fresh tomatoes, onions, sweet green peppers, Kalamata olives, and a generous portion of feta cheese. A good ending is the honey-soaked baklava.

Note: There are several Athens Pizza restaurants and Athens Pizza Express takeout stores around town. Check your phone book for other locations.