Sotto Sotto means "hush hush" in Italian. How ironic. The food is divine here, but the noise is unbearable. It seems that half of Atlanta has discovered that this is the place of the moment and has tried to wedge into the tiny restaurant on the same night, at the same time. It's an energetic crowd, and they all appear quite content to shout at each other over their seafood risotto. If this is your kind of scene, then by all means go. You may have to wait to be seated even if you have a reservation, but it's worth it. But if you're looking for a quiet, romantic spot, forget it.

That's the bad news. The good news is the wood-roasted fish, Sotto Sotto's specialty (the chef fillets it tableside), the meltingly tender homemade pastas, the creamy risottos, the inventive appetizers, the attentive service, and the small but tempting selection of desserts. The unbelievably rich chocolate soup (yes, soup) of dark Belgian chocolate with hazelnut whipped cream and sugar croutons will make you swoon. The bartender makes a top-notch martini, and the 100-percent-Italian wine list is extensive, with several excellent selections by the glass.