This delightful 40-acre zoo dates from 1889, when George W. Hall (aka "Popcorn George") brought his traveling circus to town. Employee claims against Hall for back wages forced him to relinquish his menagerie, and the animal entourage was purchased by a prominent Atlanta businessman who donated the collection to the city as the basis for a zoological garden in Grant Park. It grew considerably over the years and was a popular local attraction, but it had fallen into disrepair by the mid-1980s. Director Terry Maple was brought in to rescue the zoo and oversee a still-ongoing multimillion-dollar renovation, and the turnaround has been dramatic.

Today, Zoo Atlanta is one of the finest in the country, with animals housed in large open enclosures that simulate their natural geographical habitats. The zoo participates in breeding programs, many of them focusing on endangered species, and is home to many of endangered animals, including Sumatran orangutans, 19 western lowland gorillas, black rhinos, 3 African elephants, 2 Komodo monitors, and big-mouthed African dwarf crocodiles. The facility got a huge boost in popularity and respect late in 1999 with the arrival of Lun Lun and Yang Yang, two giant pandas, and it's hoped that the dynamic duo will produce offspring.

Currently the exhibit creating the biggest stir is the Asian Forest, home to the pandas. The two Chinese natives are a huge hit with adults and children alike. Although the pandas' rowdiest period is in the afternoon, the two put on quite a show most of the day: munching bamboo, tussling with each other, playing on their log swing, or climbing on the swinging ladder. Lun Lun might take a dip in the habitat pool, although Yang Yang has declined to take the plunge. (When Lun Lun has had enough of Yang Yang's roughhousing, she heads for the water.) In the summer, the two can be especially entertaining; if it's really sweltering, zoo officials give each of them a huge block of ice to help them cool off. Yang Yang likes to hug his until it melts.

Your first stop will probably be Flamingo Plaza. Farther on, Mzima Springs and Masai Mara house elephants, rhinos, lions, zebras, giraffes, gazelles, and other African animals and birds. The landscape resembles the plains of East Africa, with honey locust trees and yuccas; and the lion enclosure replicates an East African kopje (rocky outcropping). Frequent animal demonstrations, African storytelling, and educational programs take place under the Elder's Tree in Masai Mara.

The lushly landscaped Ford African Rain Forest--one of the most popular sections--centers on four vast gorilla habitats separated by moats. Studies on gorilla behavior take place here, and there are usually quite a few adorable babies. They're hard to spot sometimes, so be sure to ask if there are any to be seen. The zoo's longtime mascot, Willie B. (named after former Atlanta mayor William B. Hartsfield), died in 2000, but his daughters Kudzoo and Olympia live in the forest and usually put on a pretty good show. The best time to visit is around 2pm, when the gorillas are fed. Also in the section is a walk-through aviary of West African birds, an exhibit of small African primates, and the Gorillas of Cameroon Museum. Landscaping includes burned-out areas of forest and deadfall trees--gorillas do not live in manicured gardens.

In the Ketambe section, several families of high-climbing orangutans show off their skills among the trees and bamboo clusters of an Indonesian tropical rainforest. If you're lucky enough to be there at feeding time--around 2:30pm--you might see them swinging on ropes from tree to tree. In the Sumatran Tiger Forest, rare Sumatran tigers prowl a lush forest, sometimes dipping into a stream or waterfall. Nearby is a superb Reptile House--the zoo is home to one of the finest reptile collections in the country--and a special exhibit area, often used to house visiting animals.

Plan to catch entertaining and informative free animal shows in the Wildlife Theater during summer or at the African Elephant Demonstration given daily year-round.

A zoo train travels through the Children's Zoo area, where you'll find a playground and petting zoo where kids can get friendly with llamas, sheep, pot-bellied pigs, goats, and more. There are aviaries here, too.

There are snack bars (including a McDonald's) throughout the zoo. Or you can picnic in tree-shaded areas in Grant Park. The Zoo Atlanta Trading Company features zoo memorabilia and gifts.