Who wouldn't want to be tucking into crab-and-corn cakes, banana-glazed opah, macadamia-nut-roasted opakapaka, or crab won tons under a thatched umbrella, with a sand floor and palm trees at arm's length and a view of Lanai across the channel? Peter Merriman, one of the originators of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, segued seamlessly from his smallish, Big Island upcountry enclave to this large, high-volume, open-air dining room on the beach. Hula Grill offers a wide range of prices and choices; it can be expensive but doesn't have to be. The menu includes Merriman's signature firecracker mahimahi, seafood pot stickers, and several different fresh-fish preparations, including his famous ahi poke rolls -- lightly sautéed rare ahi wrapped in rice paper with Maui onions. At lunch the menu is more limited, with a choice of sandwiches, entrees, pizza, appetizers, and salads. There's happy-hour entertainment and Hawaiian music daily. For those wanting a more casual atmosphere, the Barefoot Bar, located on the beach, offers burgers, fish, pizza, and salads.