Mark Ellman's Maui Tacos chain has grown faster than you can say "Haleakala." Ellman put gourmet Mexican on paper plates and on the island's culinary map long before the island became known as Hawaii's center of salsa and chimichangas. Barely more than a take-out counter with a few tables, this and the six other Maui Tacos in Hawaii (4 on Maui alone) are the rage of hungry surfers, discerning diners, burrito buffs, and Hollywood glitterati, like Sharon Stone, whose picture adorns a wall or two. Choices include excellent fresh-fish tacos (garlicky and flavorful), chimichangas, and mouth-breaking compositions such as the Hookipa, a "surf burrito" of fresh fish, black beans, and salsa and a personal favorite. The green-spinach burrito contains four kinds of beans, rice, and potatoes -- it's a knockout, requiring a siesta afterward.