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DINING
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Mama's Fish House
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799 Poho Place (Just off the Hana Hwy, Kuau)
tel.: 808/579-8488
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Location: Just off the Hana Hwy, Kuau Cuisine: Seafood
Price Category: Very Expensive
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The restaurant's entrance, a cove with windsurfers, tide pools, white sand, and a canoe resting under palm trees, is a South Seas fantasy worthy of Gauguin. The interior features curved lauhala-lined ceilings, walls of split bamboo, lavish arrangements of tropical blooms, and picture windows to let in the view. With servers wearing Polynesian prints and flowers behind their ears, and the sun setting in Kuau Cove, Mama's mood is hard to beat. The fish is fresh (the fishermen are even credited by name on the menu) and prepared Hawaiian style, with tropical fruit or baked in a macadamia nut and vanilla bean crust, or in a number of preparations involving ferns, seaweed, Maui onions and roasted kukui nut. Menu items include mahimahi laulau with luau leaves (taro greens) and Maui onions, baked in ti leaves and served with kalua pig and Hanalei poi -- the best. Deepwater ahi could be seared with coconut and lime, while ono "caught by Keith Nakamura along the 40-fathom ledge near Hana" comes in Hana ginger teriyaki with macadamia nuts and crisp Maui onion. Other special touches include the use of Molokai sweet potato, Hana breadfruit, organic lettuces, Haiku bananas, and fresh coconut, which evoke the mood and tastes of old Hawaii.
Main courses $29-$59.Open: Daily 11am-3pm; light menu 3-4:45pm; and 4:45-9pm last seating.Reservations recommended for lunch, required for dinner.Credit Cards: AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.
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