One of my best friends -- a transplanted Chicagoan who now lives in New York -- always has one request when she comes back to town: dinner at Wishbone. It's that kind of place, a down-home, casual spot that inspires intense loyalty (even if the food is only good rather than outstanding).

Known for Southern food and big-appetite breakfasts, Wishbone's extensive, reasonably priced menu blends hearty, home-style choices with healthful and vegetarian items. Brunch is the 'Bone's claim to fame, when an eclectic crowd of bedheads pack in for the plump and tasty salmon cakes, omelets, and red eggs (a lovely mess of tortillas, black beans, cheese, scallions, chile ancho sauce, salsa, and sour cream). However, brunch at Wishbone can be a mob scene, so I suggest lunch or dinner; offerings run from "yardbird" (charbroiled chicken with sweet red-pepper sauce) and blackened catfish to hoppin' John or Jack (vegetarian variations on the black-eyed pea classic). The tart Key lime pie is one of my favorite desserts in the city. The casual ambience is a good bet for families (a children's menu is available).

There's a newer location at 3300 N. Lincoln Ave. (tel. 773/549-2663), but the original location has more character.