A venerable old restaurant in a venerable old hotel, the Cape Cod Room is usually filled to capacity even during the middle of the week, underscoring its perennial popularity, even though I think it's overrated. This is the kind of place where waiters debone the Dover sole tableside, while businessmen work out their next deal. There's nothing nouvelle about the Cape Cod Room, which is part of the draw for old-timers; the restaurant, located on the lower level of The Drake hotel, is dimly lit and hasn't changed much since it opened in the 1930s. Although the food is fine, plenty of other restaurants offer similar dishes at much lower prices.

For starters, the hearty Bookbinder red snapper soup is a signature dish; it's flavored to taste with dry sherry brought to the table. Or, you might order a mixed seafood appetizer of shrimp, crab fingers, clams, and oysters. Main course offerings include sautéed striped bass served with a potato champagne sauce, New England scrod, red snapper, or Atlantic salmon baked with a potato horseradish crust. You'll also find a small selection of prime meat cuts, steaks, and chops. I wouldn't call the Cape Cod Room a good value, but the people-watching can be priceless.