Come here for the nostalgia, not the food. Back when celebrities journeyed by train between Hollywood and New York and stopped in Chicago to court the press, they always had a meal at the Pump Room. Diners at Booth One inevitably showed up in the morning papers. Today, the only celebrities you're likely to see at the Pump Room are the photographs of movie stars lining the walls. It's the kind of place that's thought of fondly as a local institution, but a recent turnover of chefs has made the cuisine inconsistent.

Like the interior, the menu has had a few makeovers over the years; today, the focus is on classic American dishes with a sophisticated twist. Appetizers run the range from simple escargot in garlic butter to foie gras served with hibiscus nectar or sea scallops with mushrooms and caviar. For entrees, try the three preparations of lamb served together (seared rack, oven roasted, and braised shank), or veal chop stuffed with prosciutto and asiago cheese. A more exotic choice is the roasted Muscovy duck breast with seaweed salad and mango sauce.