Spiaggia means "beach" in Italian, and the restaurant's name is a tribute to its spectacular view of Lake Michigan and the Oak Street Beach. But this is no casual beach cafe. Spiaggia is widely acknowledged as the best fine-dining Italian restaurant in the city. The dining room is bright, airy, and sophisticated, an atmosphere far removed from your neighborhood trattoria (wear your jackets, gentlemen).

You can order a la carte or from two different degustation menus. The menu changes often and emphasizes seasonal ingredients. For starters, consider carpaccio of smoked Sicilian swordfish or pork loin wrapped in pancetta, served with sautéed artichoke hearts in a balsamic vinegar dressing. This ain't your Mama's pasta, either: Recent offerings have included pheasant-stuffed ravioli, pumpkin risotto, and gnocchi with wild mushrooms. Entree examples include classic zuppa di pesce and products of the restaurant's wood-burning oven, including monkfish; salmon; duck breast with Ligurian black olives, tomatoes, fennel, and baby artichokes; and grilled squab over lentils with foie gras. The classic Spiaggia dessert is the baba all'arancia, a cake soaked in orange liqueur and served with orange cream; the chilled mascarpone-cheese torte with rich chocolate gelato and espresso sauce is another high point.

Adjacent to the restaurant in a narrow, window-lined space is the informal, lower-priced Café Spiaggia (tel. 312/280-2764), which has the same hours but also (unlike the main restaurant) serves Sunday brunch.