Le Colonial is an escapist's paradise, a cleverly crafted re-creation of the civilized yet exotic world of French Indochina. Here in its tony Oak Street environs, Le Colonial has one of the loveliest dining rooms in the city -- and the second-floor lounge is a sultry, seductive cocktail destination.

The restaurant evokes 1920s Saigon, with bamboo shutters, rattan chairs, potted palms and banana trees, fringed lampshades and ceiling fans, and evocative period photography. While the ambience certainly merits a visit, the flavorful cuisine is a draw on its own. Start with the hearty oxtail soup or the light and refreshing beef-and-watercress salad. Entrées include grilled lime-glazed sea scallops with garlic noodle salad; sautéed jumbo shrimp in curried coconut sauce; and roasted chicken with lemon grass-and-lime dipping sauce. Refresh with the orange-mint iced tea, and finish with banana tapioca pudding or gooey Le Colonial macaroon -- or an after-dinner drink upstairs. Le Colonial offers outdoor seating in warm weather; try to reserve one of the coveted, romantic mezzanine terrace tables.