It has been called the best Thai restaurant in the city -- possibly the country. Here, chef/owner Arun Sampanthavivat prepares a refined version of traditional Thai cuisine, authentic and flavorful but not palate-scorching. The only downside is its out-of-the-way location -- you can get here by public transportation, but I recommend a taxi at night when the bus schedules are less reliable.

The 12-course chef's menu is your only option here, and different tables receive different dishes on a given night. This sequential banquet begins with degustation-style appetizers, followed by four family-style entrees and two desserts. You might see courses of various delicate dumplings accented with edible, carved dough flowers; an alchemist's Thai salad of bitter greens and peanuts with green papaya, tomatoes, chiles, and sticky rice; and a medley of clever curries, including a surprisingly delightful sea bass and cabbage sour curry. When classic dishes appear, such as pad thai, they're always above the norm. Hope your dessert selections include the sticky rice with papaya (don't tell them if you're celebrating an occasion or they may serve you chocolate cake). The menu is paired with an award-winning wine list, and the restaurant provides a smoke-free environment.