Predating many of Chicago's pan-Asian noodle shops, Penny's has kept its loyal following even as others have joined the fray. Penny Chiamopoulous, a Thai native, has assembled a concise menu of delectable dishes, all of them fresh and made to order -- and all at prices that will make you do a double-take. The two dining rooms are clean and spare; single diners can usually find a seat along the bar that wraps around the grill. The Thai spring roll, filled with seasoned tofu, cucumber, bean sprouts, and strips of cooked egg, makes a refreshing starter. Of course, noodles unite everything on the menu, so your main decision is choosing among the options (crispy wide rice, rice vermicelli, Japanese udon, and so on) served in a soup or spread out on a plate. There are several barbecued pork and beef entrees, and plenty of options for vegetarians.

The original Penny's, tucked under the El tracks at 3400 N. Sheffield Ave. near Wrigley Field (tel. 773/281-8222), is small and often has long waits; you stand a better chance of scoring a table at the Diversey Avenue location or the one in Wicker Park, at 1542 N. Damen Ave. (tel. 773/394-0100). All locations are BYOB.