Jane's has long been ignored by snobbish dining critics, which is all the more reason to love this inconspicuous charmer. This does not, however, mean that snagging a table at Jane's is an easy feat. On the contrary, this is a hugely popular destination among Wicker Park/Bucktown habitués, who'd prefer to keep it a secret. (Wait for your table at the Bucktown Pub or the Leopard Lounge, two of Bucktown's friendliest bars, which are across the street and next door, respectively.)

More than anything else, it may be the cozy ambience that attracts diners. Jane's is ensconced in an old house that has been gutted and rehabbed to create an open, two-story space with just 16 tables. (In summer, seven more are set up on an outside patio.) The menu offers piquant, upscale comfort food prepared simply and with loving care. The salads are standouts. Try the mesclun greens with pear, blue cheese, pecans, and balsamic vinaigrette. Tasty entrees include seared sea bass with mashed potatoes, arugula, caramelized pearl onions, and mushroom coulis; and an excellent garden burger with wild mushrooms and Monterey Jack cheese, served with mashed potatoes.