Opened in 1994, Jean-Claude Poilevey's trend-setting Le Bouchon was a well-received precursor of the bistro boom. This tiny storefront restaurant quickly caught on for the intimate yet boisterous atmosphere and authentic bistro fare at reasonable prices.

Whatever the season, the food here is fairly heavy, although specials are lighter in warmer months. Poilevey could pack this place every night just with regulars addicted to the house specialty of roast duck for two bathed in Grand Marnier-orange marmalade sauce. The fare covers bistro basics, with starters including steamed mussels in white wine and herbs, country paté, onion tart, codfish brandade (a pounded mixture of cod, olive oil, garlic, milk, and cream), and salade Lyonnaise (greens with bacon lardons, croutons, and poached egg). The authenticity continues in the entree department, with steak frites, sautéed rabbit in white wine, veal kidneys in mustard sauce, and garlicky frog legs on the bill of fare. The sounds of prominent music and voices from closely packed tables create an atmosphere that some perceive as cozy and romantic, and others as claustrophobic and noisy. There's a small bar where you can wait -- something you can expect even if you have a reservation.