Sister to Jean-Claude Poilevey's popular Le Bouchon (and named after a critic's description of that tiny Bucktown bistro), this more spacious and gracious destination is bathed in a honeyed glow and sensual aromas wafting from the open kitchen and rotisserie. La Sardine has the classic bistro look as well as warm, friendly service that makes this the Randolph Street version of a neighborhood restaurant.

Well-prepared versions of bistro standards include the delicate bouillabaisse in a lobster-saffron broth; ragout of super-tender rabbit, onions, and mashed potatoes; steak frites; sensational escargots bourguignon; onion soup; and salade Lyonnaise (greens, bacon lardons, croutons, and poached egg). The dessert menu boasts a frozen Grand Marnier soufflé with strawberry coulis and a warm passion-fruit soufflé with crème anglaise. At lunch, choose from an abbreviated menu of appetizers and salads, soups, sandwiches, and entrees, or opt for a hearty plat du jour, perhaps tuna nicoise on Monday, or duck legs braised in red wine with mushrooms and potato purée on Thursday. There's also a daily $16 three-course lunch featuring soup or salad and your choice of entree and dessert.