Chef Carrie Nahabedian (who named the place from her nickname) did time at four-star hotels in California before returning to her hometown, and a West Coast influence is clear in Naha's wine list and use of seasonal ingredients. But she adds Mediterranean flavors into the mix, including dishes that reflect her Armenian heritage.

Dishes at Naha combine diverse flavors without getting fussy. The duck liver with roasted preserved quince is a delightfully rich starter, and tartare of ahi tuna topped with caviar comes garnished with a colorful mix of diced vegetables. Entrees are hearty: veal rib-eye with oven-cured tomatoes and cipollini onions; sirloin steak with a gratin of goat cheese; and hot smoked salmon with lentils, cabbage, and caramelized onions. The dessert menu leans toward fruit; a highlight is the warm pear cake topped with almond ice cream, served with a red Bartlett pear sorbet and pear compote on the side (as my waiter described it, "Naughty, but not too naughty.").

A front lounge offers a special menu of meze, Mediterranean "small dishes," including flatbread with tomatoes, goat cheese, and artichokes; lamb kebabs; and feta cheese phyllo triangles made from the chef's mother's recipe.