Sure, not many Chicagoans knew who Daniel Kelly was when he opened his namesake restaurant in 2002 (he'd spent the previous 10 years cooking at various Hyatt hotels). But his lineup of creative American dishes has won him a solid reputation in town among diners more interested in quality than buzz. The dining room here is simple (exposed brick walls, maple floor) and the crowd similarly understated. Kelly shines when it comes to putting a fresh spin on some neglected foods. One highlight of the menu, believe it or not, is the Brussels sprouts in garlic sauce. Puréed parsnips are spiced up with horseradish and served with ruby trout. Even relatively simple dishes (pan-roasted pork tenderloin with apple ragout) feature top-notch ingredients. The place is rather pricey for "simple" American cuisine, but Kelly is definitely one of Chicago's chefs to watch.