Chef Kevin Shikami had been cooking up fusion dishes for years in various restaurants around town; since opening his own place in 2002, he has finally been able to let loose. The overall mood is Zen calm (dark wood tables, chairs, and floor; recessed lights that illuminate textured paper covers). The menu emphasizes Japanese and Thai preparations and flavors; almost half the entrees are seafood. Shikami's signature dish is his tuna tartare, widely acknowledged as one of the city's best versions of this now-trendy appetizer (here, it's livened up with spicy wasabi and paired with a seasonal salad). Lobster and scallops get a kick from mandarin-orange sauce, while grilled salmon is glazed with a spicy mango sauce and served with Thai red curry. The uneven service means that Kevin hasn't quite reached the high standards of other restaurants in this price range, but if you crave creative takes on Asian cuisine, Kevin comes through.