A reflection of changing economic times, this restaurant was transformed last year from the upscale Aubriot into the more affordable Escargot. Chef Eric Aubriot has simplified his presentations and ingredients so that no entree costs more than $20 -- and so far the change has been a hit with locals, from older couples to families with children. The cheery dining room -- with translucent green chairs and glass panels painted with brightly colored sunflowers -- is particularly welcoming. Appetizers are mostly familiar French favorites (foie gras, salads, and -- of course -- escargot). Entrees blend unexpected ingredients without ever veering too far from the familiar. Recent choices included sautéed skate wing with a lobster vegetable ragout; artichoke-and-ricotta crepes with tomato marmalade and olive tapenade; and risotto with carrot juice, herbs, and tarragon sauce. An upstairs lounge, Eau, is aimed at a younger set, with tapas-sized nibbles and sleek contemporary decor.