SE HABLA BEETHOVEN, states the legend beneath the sign of the landmark John Barleycorn Memorial Pub. In contrast to the frat-house craziness on much of the block, this is a tavern for highbrows, who are treated to a background of classical music, a continuous slide show of art masterpieces, and an extensive collection of model ships. The patio is nice in warm weather, and patrons can order a burger from the menu, too. A new location 3 blocks from Wrigley Field, at 3524 N. Clark St. (tel. 773/549-6000), re-creates the art and classical music concept -- except after Cubs games, when it becomes yet another sports bar.