In a town house overlooking North Square and the Paul Revere House, this traditional-looking restaurant offers innovative cuisine and a level of sophistication far removed from the North End's familiar "hello, dear" service. The menu changes seasonally. Start with excellent soup, risotto, or a pasta special; I'd go for any of those over the less exciting cured-meat sampler. The superb entrees are unlike anything else in this neighborhood, except in size -- portions are more than generous. Fork-tender osso buco, a limited-quantity nightly special, is almost enough for two, but you'll want it all for yourself. You can't go wrong with main-course pastas, either, and the fresh seafood specials (say, succulent grilled tuna over squid-ink linguine with tomatoes, olives, capers, and anchovies) are uniformly marvelous. The pasta, bread, and desserts are homemade, and the shadowy, whitewashed rooms make this a popular spot for popping the question.