Because La Summa isn't on the restaurant rows of Hanover and Salem streets, it maintains a cozy neighborhood atmosphere. Unlike some neighborhood places, it's friendly to outsiders -- you'll feel welcome even if your server doesn't greet you by name. La Summa is worth seeking out just for the wonderful homemade pasta and desserts, and the more elaborate entrees are scrumptious, too. You might start with ravioli or a superb soup (our waitress one night didn't know exactly what was in the butternut-squash soup because, and I quote, "My mother made it"). Or stick to the salad that comes with each meal, and save room for sweets.

Try any seafood special, lobster ravioli, pappardelle e melanzane (strips of eggplant tossed with ethereal fresh pasta in light marinara sauce), or the house special -- veal, chicken, sausage, shrimp, artichokes, pepperoncini (pickled hot peppers), olives, and mushrooms in white-wine sauce. Desserts, especially tiramisu, are terrific.