One of Boston's most acclaimed restaurants sits in the shadow of the State House, an area better known for politicians' pubs than for fine dining. The legislators must make room for foodies here, thanks to chef-owner Barbara Lynch's flair for strong flavors and superb pasta. To start, try beet salad -- an upright cylinder of shredded vegetables atop blue cheese, surrounded by greens -- or oysters on the half shell with unusually tasty mignonette sauce. Move on to braised short ribs of beef served with marrow custard, striped bass with mushroom fricassee, or a sampler of those famous pastas. For dessert, profiteroles (a chocolate version served with coconut ice cream) are worth every calorie. One caveat: The austere but comfortable space can get quite loud.