This is one of the best and busiest restaurants in Chinatown, with niceties that the smaller restaurants don't offer, such as tablecloths and tuxedoed waiters. If you have the heart, you can watch your dinner swimming around in the large fish tanks, both salt- and freshwater. Clams with black-bean sauce is a signature dish, as is gray sole with fried fins and bones. Stick to seafood and you can't go wrong. Lunch specials are a great deal, but skip the chow fun, which quickly turns gelatinous. If you're in town during Chinese New Year celebrations, phone ahead and request a banquet for your group. For about $25 a person, you'll get so many courses that you'll lose track.