This is the place that put the South End on Boston's culinary map, a pioneering restaurant that's both classic and contemporary. One of its many claims to fame is its status as a Julia Child favorite. The husband-and-wife team of Gordon and Fiona Hamersley presides over a long dining room with lots of soft surfaces that absorb sound, so you can see but not quite hear what's going on at the tables around you. That means you'll have to quiz one of the courteous servers about the dish that just passed by -- perhaps the signature appetizer of grilled mushrooms and garlic on country bread.

The menu changes seasonally and offers about a dozen carefully considered entrees noted for their emphasis on local ingredients and classic preparations. I find the famed roast chicken with garlic a bit tame, but cassoulet with pork, duck confit, and garlic sausage is a gorgeously executed combination of flavors and textures. This kitchen also has a way with seafood -- perhaps sea scallops served with spring vegetables and lemon sauce. The wine list is excellent.