Dinner at L'Espalier is a unique experience, very much like spending the evening at the home of a dear friend who has only your pleasure in mind -- and a dozen helpers in the kitchen. Owners Catherine and Frank McClelland (he's the chef) preside over three dining rooms on the second floor of an 1886 town house. The space is formal yet inviting, and the service is excellent. The food, an exploration of the freshest and most interesting ingredients available, is magnificent.

A first course of flambéed Maine lobster arrives with baby zucchini and creamed spiced pumpkin, and perfectly balanced fresh cabernet grape vinaigrette dresses a salad of greens with wild rice, herbed polenta, and white asparagus. Main courses are equally imaginative: perhaps arctic char in a parsley-citrus crust with red-pepper relish and lemony rosemary broth, or beef filet and prawn with a sauce of cabernet sauvignon, black truffle, and marrow. The breads, sorbets, ice creams, and alarmingly good desserts (many adapted from the family's heirloom cookbooks) are made in-house. Even if you order one of the superb soufflés, ask to see the beautiful desserts. Or finish with the celebrated cheese tray, which always includes two local selections.