Never exactly a secret, the Helmand enjoyed a burst of publicity when the manager's brother took over the provisional government of Afghanistan, and it's hardly had a slow night since. The elegant setting belies the reasonable prices at this spacious spot near the CambridgeSide Galleria mall. The unusual cuisine evokes Middle Eastern, Indian, and Pakistani food, with its own delectable flavors and textures. Many dishes are vegetarian, and meat is often one element of a dish rather than the centerpiece. Every meal comes with delectable bread made fresh in a wood-fired brick oven near the entrance.

To start, you might try slightly sweet baked pumpkin topped with a spicy ground meat sauce -- a great contrast of flavors and textures -- or aushak, pasta pockets filled with leeks or potatoes and buried under a sauce of split peas and carrots. Aushak, also available as a main course, can be prepared with meat sauce as well. In several dishes, grilling brings out the flavor of lamb and chicken. Other entrees include several versions of what Americans would call stew, including deygee kabob, an excellent mélange of lamb, yellow split peas, onion, and red peppers. For dessert, don't miss the Afghan version of baklava.