Geographically, this raucous restaurant is in Somerville, but in spirit it's on a Southern back road -- where the sun is hot, the beer is cold, and a slab of meat is done to a turn. Barbecued ribs (Memphis-, Texas-, and Arkansas-style), smoked beef brisket, fried Louisiana catfish, and grilled chicken come with appropriate side dishes alone or in combinations. The chummy staff can help you choose sweet, hot, mild, or vinegar sauce. The best nonbarbecue dish is a starter or dinner of succulent buffalo shrimp, swimming in hot sauce. Portions are large, so pace yourself. You'll want to try the appetizers and sides -- catfish "catfingers," succotash, corn pudding -- and desserts, especially pecan pie. The only less-than-tasty dish I've had here was watery broccoli (cosmic payback for ordering a vegetable other than coleslaw, no doubt). There's a huge selection of beers, and valet parking for your bike in warm weather. Given a choice, sit upstairs -- Underbones, downstairs, is a noisy bar.