Troquet's menu consists of three columns, with starters and main courses along either side and wines down the middle -- a good arrangement, because wine is the centerpiece here. Troquet (French slang for "small wine cafe") offers 40-plus wines by the 2- or 4-ounce glass and hundreds more by the bottle. Because the restaurant's markup is lower than usual, sampling several selections is surprisingly affordable. The menu recommends pairings, and you'll want just the right thing to complement the exceptional cuisine, which emphasizes seasonal ingredients and never overwhelms the wine. The word that keeps coming back to me is subtle -- a salad with hazelnut chèvre tempura and marinated beets was flavorful but not overpowering; wild-mushroom pithivier was rich and earthy; panko-crusted cod seemed perfumed rather than punched up with red curry and kaffir lime. Best of all, whether you're a novice or a pro, the staff offers as much wine advice as you need. I'll offer some dessert advice: chocolate fondant cake. The restaurant is a family affair -- wine director Chris Campbell is co-owner with his wife, Diane, and chef Scott Hebert is married to pastry chef Natalia Andalo.