This is a good middle-of-the-road choice -- a little bit of adventure for those who don't usually take dining risks, but not so much that the truly timid will find nothing to eat. As we write this, however, the restaurant, originally built as a place to watch TI's Pirate Battle, is getting an overhaul -- perhaps to tone down the pirate imagery, since said Pirate Battle is turning into a showcase for scantily clad dancers. It's going to be more fun than ever to watch fellow diners drop their forks and race to the windows when the cry "Pirates are on!" goes up.

Appetizers come in both hot (jerk-style shrimp Jamaica and escargot brioche) and cold (shrimp cocktail and Parma prosciutto) varieties. The savory celery-root flan and the quail are the true stars of the appetizer menu. (The quail wasn't on the menu, so be sure to ask about specials.) Entrees range from poultry to beef to seafood. Consider the Colorado buffalo prime rib, which is roasted and grilled over mesquite wood and served with creamy horseradish potatoes. If you haven't tried buffalo before, check it out. Desserts include apple beignets, white-chocolate cheesecake with raspberry sauce, and the house specialty, apricot or harlequin (Grand Marnier and white and dark chocolate) mini soufflés.