It's a famous Los Angeles restaurant and the place that young Hollywood execs flock to when out for a Vegas jaunt, but we can't help but notice that the food is very ordinary. It's not bad, but it may not justify the high prices. There are multiple dining rooms done in dark wood -- very L.A. '70s mellow bar -- with leopard prints on the menus and plates, and too-loud jazz music blaring throughout.

Peculiarly, the most expensive menu item is Dover sole with mashed potatoes -- a cheap fish and a cheap accompaniment. The menu boasts that none of their soups is made with dairy products. But they might want to reconsider that policy, because the potato-leek soup was flat and dull -- it really needed cream or butter. Lake Superior whitefish in phyllo dough (a flaky, thin dough) with onion marmalade will please those who don't mind their appetizers on the sweet side. On the plus side, the duck was crispy and not dry. The crab cakes were also tasty, with shredded -- not puréed -- crab, and were served with a stiff but nice and cheesy risotto (though the lemon-caper sauce had no flavor). And it would be worth going to Drai's just for the chocolate-mousse dessert -- light and delectable, and not overly sweet.