Andre's has long been the bastion of gourmet dining in Vegas, but with all the new big boys crowding the Strip, it runs the risk of getting overlooked. It shouldn't -- Andre may not have a show on the Food Network, but he ought to be a household name. Besides, his first restaurant still dominates Downtown. (This is also a celebrity haunt where you're likely to see Strip headliners. One night, Tom Hanks, Steven Spielberg, and James Spader were all spotted joining some pals for a bachelor party. The staff played it cool, though.) In a small, converted 1930s house, you'll find an elegant French provincial atmosphere, overseen by owner-chef Andre, who brings over 40 years of experience to the table. Much of the waitstaff is also French, and they will happily lavish attention on you and guide you through the menu.

The food presentation is exquisite, and choices change seasonally. On a recent visit, an appetizer of Northwest smoked salmon mille feuille with cucumber salad and sevruga caviar was especially enjoyed, as was a main course of grilled veal tournedos with chive sauce accompanied by a mushroom and foie gras crepe. You get the idea. Desserts are similarly lovely, an exotic array of rich delights. An extensive wine list (more than 900 labels) is international in scope and includes many rare vintages; consult the sommelier.

Note: An additional branch of Andre's is in the Monte Carlo Hotel & Casino, 3775 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (tel. 702/798-7151), and is also highly recommended, as is their slightly different take, Alizé, in the new Palms hotel.