Executive Chef Alessandro Stratta was named one of "America's 10 Best Chefs" by Food & Wine, and has several serious culinary awards including the 1998 "Best Chef in the Southwest" by the James Beard Foundation. Though surely both of these awards paled in comparison to Stratta's being named one of the four Iron Chefs on the American version of the beloved, campy cooking show.

Kidding aside, Stratta's cooking has given Renoir the distinction of five Mobil stars (as of 2000). While the space itself is less inspired than Picasso (the Renoirs on the walls seem an afterthought), it does have a tad more intimacy, thanks to some banquettes and a more hushed atmosphere, plus less obtrusive and less intimidating service, and cunning touches such as stools for the ladies' handbags. (And yet, the bathrooms are out in the casino.)

Nightly, there are two tasting menus, including one focused solely on vegetables, but items from each can be interchanged with some from the a la carte menu. Standouts include downy pillows of potato gnocchi with black truffles -- so good it seems like a pity when the dish is finished -- and a combo of Maine lobster and sweet-corn ravioli, an always-welcome pairing of flavors. Also enjoyable, but grudgingly portioned, are the cannelloni of red-wine-braised duck (with creamed leeks), and the Napoleon of ahi tuna and yellowtail with Gazpacho vegetables and a dollop of Osetra caviar. If you are looking to conserve money, note that the appetizer of terrine of foie gras (with Waldorf salad and toasted currant bread) is generously sized and would be fine as an entree. This is also the place for a cheese plate: One night it featured St. Andre, Vacheron, Comte, Tellagio, and Roquefort, all at perfect temperature. And thanks to a thoughtfully priced wine list, even the average person can try something as rare as Chateau D'Yquem -- they offer a 1-ounce glass for $25.