Here's a sign that Vegas might really be developing a culture of its own, as contradictory as that sounds. When the local immigrant culture is moving beyond the basic Asian and South-of-the-Border entries and starts showing representatives from, say, the Balkans and Eastern Europe, the local personality is all the better. This (naturally) strip mall-located spot serves absolutely authentic Hungarian food -- we've eaten paprikash and goulash (remember, real goulash is a soup, not a stew; you want a porkolt for that) exactly the same in Budapest and smaller towns. Which is to say the portions aren't huge (unless you get the sample platter of various meats and sausages), but they are hearty, complete with the traditional tiny dumplings and good-quality bread. Try the sweet-vinegar cucumber salad or the Hungarian crepes for dessert. On a recent visit, the place was full of homesick expats (who knew?), including one woman on the phone with her ailing Hungarian mother, whom she was just about to visit in Colorado. Mom was placing an order. It's comfort food for her, for us, and maybe for you. And when you are done, drop by the next-door Crown International Market, run by the same folks, for all your deli and other import-grocery wants, or get a fabulous Hungarian salami sandwich to go.