Just a perfect restaurant, thanks to a combination of the most divine dining room and view in Vegas (situated at the top of the Palms Hotel, with three sides of full length windows that allow a panoramic view of the night lights of Vegas; obviously, window-side tables are best, but even seats in the center of the room have a good view), and one of the best chefs in a town where many great chefs have restaurants but are rarely in their kitchens (Emeril and Wolfgang, we love them, but they can't be in 25 different places at once). Overseen by Andre, he of the eponymous (and excellent) restaurants in Downtown and the Monte Carlo, the executive chef is Jacques Van Staden, who trained with one of the world's greatest chefs, Jean-Louis Pallidin. The menu changes seasonally, but anything you order will be heavenly.

On our last visit, we had perhaps 14 different courses, and not a single one disappointed. In the appetizer department, the marinated jumbo lump crabmeat and avocado salad with heirloom tomato consommé and basil oil was a riot of freshness, while the gnocchi with sautéed wild mushrooms, black truffle, and mushroom emulsion was the kind of dish clearly created by someone thoughtful and clever. A phyllo-wrapped baked pear and Roquefort cheese with a vinegar and port reduction was less salad (as it was billed) and more hot appetizer. The foie gras comes in a pink-grapefruit-and-citrus-honey reduction, a tangy combination. Fish can be a little dry here, so we suggest either the stunning New York steak with summer truffle jus and potato herb pancakes, or the meltingly tender lamb chops with some shredded lamb shank wrapped in a crispy fried crepe. Desserts are similarly outstanding, and often of great frivolity, such as sorbet in a case of browned marshmallow, floating in raspberry soup. Yeah, we're going over the top on this one, but we bet you won't think we're wrong.