This authentic French wine bar and bistro is a charming slice of Le Marais on the gentrifying Lower East Side, with high ceilings, burnished brick walls, well-spaced tables with mix-and-match chairs, and an authentic come-as-you-are air. The kitchen specializes in the Gallic version of comfort food: steak frites, shell steak with Roquefort sauce, a delectable shepherd's pie with a delightfully cheesy crust, and a generous charcuterie and cheese plate -- the perfect match for the sublime crusty-on-the-outside, soft-in-the-middle bread that accompanies every meal. Greens are fresh and well prepared; even a simple mesclun salad wears a just-right vinaigrette. There's a wonderful wine selection by the bottle, carafe, and glass; I like the restaurant's protocol, which allows you to taste first even if you're just ordering by the glass. Service is attentive in a casual, easygoing way. I've eaten here plenty, and both food and service are consistently good.