This très-French Meat-Packing District bistro is a spitting image of big-sister hot spot, Balthazar -- complete with straight-from-the-Left Bank decor, classic bistro fare, ridiculously close tables, and the noise level of a Metallica show -- with slightly lower prices. Weekends Pastis is mobbed, but great for people-watching. (I spotted Kevin Kline and Phoebe Cates on my last visit.) Your best bet is to dine early, or come for weekday breakfast or lunch, when things are quieter.

If you can take your eyes off the beautiful crowd, study the menu and look for standouts like fricassees of monkfish, skate au beurre noir (literally, "black butter," but the sauce is brown), or the classic steak frites with a rich béarnaise. There's no massive raw bar as at Balthazar, but the oysters on the half shell are from the same top-quality source. Bottles are pricey, but plenty of good, affordable wines are available by the carafe. (Don't make the mistake we did and order a half carafe, which was only $4 less than the full.) The crêpes Suzettes are an appropriately yummy finish.