There's no need to head to Chinatown -- the comfortable Grand Sichuan serves up authentic Szechuan cuisine right here in Chelsea. Spicy food lovers will be particularly thrilled, as the kitchen excels at dishes that are intensely spiced without being palate-numbing -- a brilliant culinary balance that few Chinatown kitchens can achieve. The flavors are complex and strong, especially in such top choices as Szechuan wontons in red oil, Chairman Mao's pork with chestnuts, and my favorite, boneless whole fish with pine nuts in a modified sweet-and-sour sauce. The house bean curd in spicy sauce is another winner, but only for those with a high tolerance for hot. If some in your party shy away from hot and spicy, never fear: The staff will be more than happy to recommend milder dishes.