If you've watched TV at all over the last couple of decades, this place should look familiar: It was featured nightly in the old Late Night with David Letterman intro, starred as Riff's Bar in Mad About You, and appeared in too many commercials to count, as well as in such movies as The Devil's Own, Bullets Over Broadway, and The Last Days of Disco. But this is no stage set -- it's a genuine tin-ceilinged 19th-century bar serving up good pub grub, lots of beers on tap, and a real sense of New York history. Sure, there are healthy salads on the menu, but everybody comes for the burgers. Whether you go low-fat turkey or bacon-chili-cheddar, they're great every time. You have your choice of sides, but go with the shoestring fries. Other good choices include spicy Buffalo wings with blue cheese, fiery bowls of chili sprinkled with cheddar cheese and dolloped with sour cream, and a Herculean Caesar salad slathered with mayo and topped with anchovies. Food comes up from the basement kitchen courtesy of ancient dumbwaiters behind the bar, where equally crusty bartenders would rather not make you a Cosmopolitan, thank you very much.