You may not find a better seafood restaurant in New York, or maybe even the world. Food doesn't get better than the seared rare yellowtail, steamed bok choy, in a marinated citrus and shallot vinaigrette. Chef Eric Ripert's tuna tartare always exhilarates, its Asian seasoning a welcome exotic touch. Among main courses that shine are the steamed striped bass with roasted foie gras; pan-roasted codfish, sweet-roasted garlic, and chorizo essence; and crusted cod, served on a bed of haricots verts with potatoes and diced tomatoes. The formal service is impeccable, as is the outrageously pricey wine list, and the room is uptown gorgeous, if a little generic. The fixed-price lunch is a bargain, given the master in the kitchen. The desserts -- especially the roasted pineapple ravioli and its sorbet, Rum-scented caramel sauce, and lemon pineapple pound cake -- end the meal with a flourish.