They don't come more old school than this jewel of a restaurant, which has been serving New Yorkers in classic French style since 1962. Formerly the domain of the blue-hair-and-blue-blazer set, La Grenouille is now being discovered by a younger crowd. It's quite a find -- so utterly retro that it feels like a breath of fresh air. This is a place that's really worth getting dressed up for.

La Grenouille may be classic, but it doesn't feel the least bit stuffy. The tuxedoed waitstaff is one of the warmest and most attentive in the city, second only to Chanterelle's -- and it's a very close second. There's a rare confidence here, in both the food and the service, that sets a tone of comfort and ease.

Nothing comes out of the kitchen that isn't flawlessly prepared and presented. The foie gras is sautéed to perfection and boasts a delicate hint of vanilla; the black truffle-marinated sea scallops roasted in lobster butter are another winningly decadent starter. The spice-rubbed duckling breast with braised salsify was the best duck I've ever had, while the port-glazed veal sweetbreads were fork-tender, not crispy, and beautifully accompanied by a chestnut and walnut cocotte. Order what strikes your fancy -- you can't go wrong with any dish here. The wine list is pricey but excellent; your waiter will be happy to point you to the best values. Save room for the soufflé, the ultimate realization of this classic dessert.