Fine dining goes the way of the big top at Le Cirque 2000, and it's a hit. Iconic restaurateur Sirio Maccioni made a bold move when he relocated his legendary Le Cirque a few years back, but it turned out to be a masterstroke. Designer Adam Tihany festooned the gilded-age mansion's almost rococo interiors with jewel-toned circus colors, and outrageous furniture.

The food is excellently prepared if not innovative: paupiette of black sea bass in crispy potatoes with braised leeks; Black Angus tenderloin in a Barolo sauce; and roasted venison chop. The starters are almost as pricey as the entrees, but we were won over by the flawlessly sautéed foie gras, with apple tatin and mixed baby greens. Dessert is Le Cirque's finest course: The crème brûlée is a perfect realization of the classic dessert, but go with the chocolate stove for a truly memorable finish. The wine list is remarkable, and there's spectacular courtyard dining in season.

On the downside, service can be patronizing on occasion. Request your room of preference when booking. The Blue Room is an opulent mix of bright and baroque -- and where the action is -- while the mahogany-and-royal red Hunt Room is more intimate and subdued. I prefer the Hunt (I've dined next to Whoopi Goldberg here), but you're paying too much if you're seated near the kitchen, so ask for a better table if you're led in that direction.