Accolades for Jean-Georges Vongerichten's immense culinary skills are so numerous they are beginning to get tedious; he's the Michael Jordan of chefs. And restaurant Jean-Georges is the perfect showcase for those skills. The menu is the best of Vongerichten's past successes (Vong, JoJo) taken one step further: French and Asian touches mingle with a new passion for offbeat harvests, like lamb's quarters, sorrel, yarrow, quince, and chicory. Young garlic soup with thyme and a plate of sautéed frogs' legs makes a great beginning. Muscovy duck steak with Asian spices and sweet-and-sour jus is carved table-side, while the lobster tartine with lemongrass, pea shoots, and a broth of fenugreek (one of Jean-Georges's signature aromatic plants) receives a final dash of spices seconds before you dig in. If the chestnut soup is on the menu, don't miss it. The wine list is also excellent, with a number of unusual choices in every price range.

The food is equally excellent but more affordably priced in the Nougatine cafe; don't expect equally comfy chairs or as much elbow room, however. The professional service doesn't miss a beat in the main restaurant, and still attentive if not quite as well paced in the cafe. Still, Nougatine may be your best bet for a pre-theater dinner or for a four-star lunch without the three-hour break in sightseeing. If you're visiting in the warm weather, try for a table on the lovely outdoor terrace. One qualification: They have a tendency to really jack up the prices for holiday meals, so be on your guard. Book any meal before you leave home to guarantee a table.