Sure, the bistro fare at this grand turn-of-the-century, Parisian-style cafe is good. But the decadent desserts -- New York's best -- are the reason to come. There's no need to indulge in a full meal to enjoy Payard; feel free to come for afternoon tea or just dessert (my preference, which is why I've classified Payard as moderately priced rather than expensive).

The biggest problem? Choosing among the fabulous, beautifully presented sweet treats. Displayed like the jewels they are, elegant cakes, tempting pastries, and handmade chocolates fill the gleaming glass cases up front. Everything is house-made, from the signature cakes, breads, and pastries to the delicate candies. Whether you go with the classic crème brûlée or something more decadent (anything chocolate is to die for), you're sure to be wowed. Served in the back dining salon, the predessert menu is unabashedly classic, with thick slabs of foie gras terrine, crispy pig's feet, a classic pepper steak frites, and a fragrant bouillabaisse. The pre-theater meal is a good value for early diners.