This cheery, unpretentious Italian cafe is most notable for its convenient location near the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a neighborhood short on moderately priced, recommendable eats. It's perfect for sipping espresso between museum hops or lingering over an elegant dinner. Appetizers like the bruschetta assortment served with a small salad and the warm white-bean salad over prosciutto are generous enough to be a light meal in themselves. The pasta selection mixes staples (satisfying penne pomodoro and linguine pesto) with standouts (lasagna layered with grilled chicken, fresh tomatoes, cheese, and pesto). The entrees, like veal stuffed with prosciutto and spinach and jumbo shrimp with lemon-caper sauce, are fresh and flavorful. All in all, a hidden treasure in a needy neighborhood.

If you're in the neighborhood but not in the mood for Italian, consider Grazie's new sister restaurant, Clove, 24 E. 80th St., between Fifth and Madison avenues (tel. 212/249-6500), a warm and friendly neighborhood restaurant serving sophisticated takes on classic American comfort foods, including meatloaf and fried chicken (main courses $14-$32).