This simple little Nolita restaurant, the first in New York dedicated to cuisine from Down Under, is a joy for diners in search of a bit of culinary adventure. Outfitted with basic white-linen-clad tables and black-and-white photos of the Outback, the narrow, brick-walled space is warm, cozy, and easygoing; the only downside is a lack of elbowroom, but I've never felt crowded or uncomfortable here.

As far as the food goes, think New American reimagined with antipodal (and, by association, Pan-Asian) twists. Some of my favorite dishes include emu carpaccio with asparagus and enoki mushrooms, delicately dressed in a black truffle vinaigrette; and tender, beautifully seared kangaroo (which tastes like a cross between beef and venison). For more Northern Hemisphere-minded tastes, there's better-than-dessert King Island blue cheese tarts with a shallot marmalade and balsamic vinaigrette on greens, and a delicious roasted rack of Australian lamb with mashed potatoes. A wonderful, if a tad pricey, Australian and New Zealand wine list is on hand, and the service is knowledgeable and friendly.

Downstairs is a comfortable lounge, 24/8, for cocktails and more casual Australian pub fare, including traditional meat pies, beer-battered fish-and-chips, and kangaroo skewers with pepperberry ketchup (only in Oz!), plus Australian beers on tap. I hear they'll even make you a Vegemite sandwich, but I've never asked.