Acme's motto is AN OKAY PLACE TO EAT -- a witty bit of clear-eyed candor in this best-obsessed town. This easygoing NoHo joint is divey in a pleasing way, with a good-natured staff, a Louisiana roadhouse theme, and the comfortable ambience of a well-worn neighborhood favorite. Acme serves up heaping platters of Southern home cooking and barbecue, including po-boys, boiled crawfish, jambalaya, seafood gumbo, thick-cut pork chops, chicken-fried steak, baby back ribs -- not gourmet grub, but good, cheap, filling eats.